Mountaineering and Ruin Explorations in Peru

Average rating of 2 votes: 3.0
Locations Blog entry locations
Difficulty: Hard
Jun 14, 2008 - Jul 13, 2008
Sports: Mountaineering, Hiking/Backpacking, Exotic Land Adventures

In June and July of 2008, I met up with friends to climb a few peaks in the Cordillera Blanca, the highest range in the Peruvian Andes. After climbing, I spent a few weeks trekking around southern Peru to explore several Inca ruins.

Adventure Blog Contents (8 entries)

Flying to Lima (1 photo)

Jun 14, 2008
Unknown sport
91.0 S, 181.0 W (Searching Geonames.org for nearest town... )

After the usual days and weeks of packing and planning, we are ready to go. Step one: fly from Colorado to Lima, the capital of Peru.

Photo Album for Flying to Lima

Photo 1:

From Lima to Huaraz (0 photos)

Jun 15, 2008
Unknown sport
91.0 S, 181.0 W (Searching Geonames.org for nearest town... )

Nearly all international flights into Lima arrive in the middle of the night. We booked a room in one of the hostals in downtown Lima with a pre-arranged taxi pickup from the airport. After a nice half-night of sleep, we hit the ground running to exchange money, buy a few food items and book a bus ride to Huaraz.

Photo Album for From Lima to Huaraz

No photos uploaded

Arriving in Huaraz (1 photo)

Jun 16, 2008
Unknown sport
91.0 S, 181.0 W (Searching Geonames.org for nearest town... )

The bus ride from Lima to Huaraz takes about 8 hours. The last half of the trip provide some spectacular mountain scenery, so it is worth it to try to get a daytime reservation. Huaraz is the jumping-off city for all of the climbing and trekking in the Cordillera Blanca. It has lots of great restaurants and hostals/guesthouses/hotels, along with lots of gear shops, guide agencies, etc.

Photo Album for Arriving in Huaraz

Photo 1:
A view of the Cordillera Blanca (including the massive Huáscaran, the highest peak in Peru), looming above the rooftops of Huaraz.
A view of the Cordillera Blanca (including the massive Huáscaran, the highest peak in Peru), looming above the rooftops of Huaraz.

Acclimatizing and first climbs (5 photos)

Jun 18, 2008
Unknown sport
9.563511 S, 77.468719 W (Searching Geonames.org for nearest town... )

For the next several days, we did some acclimatization and exploration trips into various areas of the Blanca, looking at access and route conditions and deciding on objectives. We then spent a week in the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca, where we planned on climbing Nevado San Juan and Maparaju. Unfortunately, we had extremely poor weather for most of the week. We reached the summit ridge of San Juan, but were turned back by dangerous and difficult cornices along the ridge. (See the photos!) Maparaju, on the other hand, was an easy and enjoyable climb.

Photo Album for Acclimatizing and first climbs

Photo 1:
Nice views as we move to a high camp on Nevado San Juan
Nice views as we move to a high camp on Nevado San Juan
Photo 2:
Our basecamp in the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca
Our basecamp in the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca
Photo 3:
Approaching the summit of Maparaju.
Approaching the summit of Maparaju.
Photo 4:
Sunrise views from our high camp on Nevado San Juan.
Sunrise views from our high camp on Nevado San Juan.
Photo 5:
The summit ridge of San Juan. Very sketchy cornices... we bailed out and descended not far from here.
The summit ridge of San Juan. Very sketchy cornices... we bailed out and descended not far from here.

Climbing Pirámide de Garcilaso (5 photos)

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Jul 1, 2008
Mountaineering
8.977323 S, 77.630424 W (Searching Geonames.org for nearest town... )

After returning from the Quilcayhuanca and getting rid of the nasty kidney infection I had picked up, we set our sights on the North Face of Pirámide de Garcilaso, a beautiful fluted pyramid at the head of the Quebrada Parón. It was a stunning climb, on an intricate and technically challenging route.

Photo Album for Climbing Pirámide de Garcilaso

Photo 1:
This is a view of our route, as taken by some buddies while they climbed an adjacent peak. Our line took us up the central couloir, leading directly to the summit.
This is a view of our route, as taken by some buddies while they climbed an adjacent peak. Our line took us up the central couloir, leading directly to the summit.
Photo 2:
Ascending the Parón Glacier at dawn, on our first foray to figure out a line for the lower half of the face.
Ascending the Parón Glacier at dawn, on our first foray to figure out a line for the lower half of the face.
Photo 3:
Weaving a line through the maze of seracs on the lower face.
Weaving a line through the maze of seracs on the lower face.
Photo 4:
Working our way up the main couloir, with the massive summit cornice looming above us.
Working our way up the main couloir, with the massive summit cornice looming above us.
Photo 5:
Looking down on the upper Parón Glacier, and the summits of the Pucajircas beyond.
Looking down on the upper Parón Glacier, and the summits of the Pucajircas beyond.

Return to Huaraz (1 photo)

Jul 8, 2008
Unknown sport
91.0 S, 181.0 W (Searching Geonames.org for nearest town... )

After completing our climb, we returned to Huaraz to recuperate and catch up on the calorie deficit. The whole country was suffering from some political unrest and strikes, with all of the major roads scheduled to be closed for a few days. My buddies left early for Lima, so that they would not miss their flights home, while I waited out the strike in Huaraz, before flying on to Cusco.

The situation was tense, but not too bad... For two days, there were pickets and parades, with a lot of army personnel watching nervously as guys with clubs marched around, burned piles of tires in the street, and made speeches from scratchy megaphones. Thankfully, there was no violence.

Photo Album for Return to Huaraz

Photo 1:
One of the protest marches that ran through Huaraz after they barricaded the roads.
One of the protest marches that ran through Huaraz after they barricaded the roads.

On to Cusco and the abodes of the Incas (1 photo)

Jul 12, 2008
Unknown sport
91.0 S, 181.0 W (Searching Geonames.org for nearest town... )

After the roads reopened, I bussed back to Lima, took a taxi to the airport, and flew on to Cusco. After the very nice low-key vibes in Huaraz, I found Cusco to be waaay too touristy, so I quickly bailed out and hailed a ride to the small town of Pisac.

Photo Album for On to Cusco and the abodes of the Incas

Photo 1:
Looking down on the roofs of Cusco.
Looking down on the roofs of Cusco.

Pisac and the Sacred Valley (3 photos)

Jul 13, 2008
Unknown sport
91.0 S, 181.0 W (Searching Geonames.org for nearest town... )

Pisac is a cool little town. It has a very popular locals market that draws a lot of tourist traffic, but the market is definitely worth checking out. The best part of Pisac would be the amazing ruins above town. Rather than taking a taxi to the ruins, I chose to hike up the hillside from town in the pre-dawn hours. I had the whole ruins to myself at sunrise. The ruins are maybe 2000' above town, which gives a beautiful view of the valley of the Rio Urubamba, aka the "Sacred Valley."

I used Pisac as my home base for the next week, using the local bus service to explore villages and ruins in the area.

Photo Album for Pisac and the Sacred Valley

Photo 1:
The Pisac market is brimming with beautifully crafted local products.
The Pisac market is brimming with beautifully crafted local products.
Photo 2:
Corn is a staple food in the region.
Corn is a staple food in the region.
Photo 3:
The Inca ruins at Pisac.
The Inca ruins at Pisac.

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